TAN: The Swedish Connection

Got over to the office a little before 10 a.m. to meet Mwanga, who finally sauntered in around 11 a.m. Mwanga had offered to take us around to some organizations that might help Sandrine with subjects for spots to show on French TV or write-ups for newspapers or magazines. We were off to visit TAMWA, Tanzania Media Women’s Association, a NGO working to raise awareness of womens issues in print, on the radio and TV. They also do grassroots organizing as well as working closely with a number of other NGO’s to promote larger projects.
We met with Irene, who despite having just returned from a months leave for “major surgery,” seemed quite together. Several of the campaigns they have been working on over the last couple of years are of interest to Sandrine. They continue to do extensive work against Female Genital Mutilation (FGM), the removal of some or all of the clitoris (in extreme cases the labia as well) as a puberty rite. Although illegal in Tanzania, FGM is still practiced in the north, around Arusha. Practicing FGM is punishable by a $300 fine and/or 15 years imprisonment. Many of the practitioners get off by bribing the police, who might turn the charge into the theft of a cow. A diagram in a piece of TAMWA literature showed a horizontal swath going straight across from East Africa to West Africa where FGM is still prevalent.
Irene also had some horror stories about misconceptions of AIDS in the rural areas. There have been cases recently where HIV+ males have been raping young girls and elderly women under the misguided idea that having sex with a virgin will cure them. The elderly women were somehow supposed to have become virginal again due to their age. Another practice putting women at risk comes when one of their offspring dies. In order to lift the curse that killed the child and to prevent it from affecting others in the family, the mother must go out and have sex with the first man they meet.

The TAMWA offices were very clearly marked. Irene, Programme Officer for TAMWA.

After a quick lunch at the Falcon (The close of Ramadan is less than a week away, yippee!), we were off to the Alliance Française. We had seen their offices when we were here in July, but never stopped by. After a long discussion with the guard about what time the offices opened and some comparing of watches, we were admitted. They had an impressive library and media room with French TV blaring away. The lady we were supposed to meet with was still at lunch, so we waited for her return. She finally showed up and a long conversation in French ensued. I caught every 50th word or so. It turned out that she had only been in Tanzania since September, and although she didn’t know a whole lot about the area, she was much more friendly and helpful than the folks over at the French Embassy. She turned us onto an archaeological project sponsored in part by the French government, on an island just off the coast south of Dar es Salaam. She also clued us in that the Beaujolais Nouveau would be happening on Thursday at the French Embassy.

Getting a little French culture at the Alliance Française.

Headed back to the office to prepare for the coming nights of Pixel Corps sessions. Tonight’s subjects were aspect ratio and proper use of the type tools. There is a huge problem, from our perspective, with people randomly resizing photos and type to fit into whatever design they are making. There is no regard for keeping proportions correct or for maintaining legibility of type.
A group of three ladies from the Konstfack University College of Arts Crafts and Design in Sweden came by to check out what we were doing. They are in town for two months to do research on graphic design in Tanzania. Maina had to go and sort out some more paperwork for the house, so Chantal and I were on our own. The Swedes stayed through the lecture but left soon after to go in search of food. We agreed to hook up with them after the evening session ended at 8 p.m. An SMS informed us that they were at a place called Steers, not far away. We joined them and a pair of Tanzanians, both named Godfrey. Godfrey #1 had seen our Pixel Corps launch presentation in July and had seen the one at IPP as well. He had spent a year in Sweden at an arts college in a small town. He has been working on an Arts based NGO called Rafiki. Godfrey #2 is a painter who has done some teaching at schools in Zanzibar and Bagamoyo. We had a nice Indian dinner while discussing the art and design “scene” in Tanzania.

Godfrey #1 and Ulina. Godfrey #2 with Sophia and Lena

After dinner, we headed over to the Storm bar for some drinks. It was the most western designed space we had yet seen in Dar.

Hanging out at Storm.